Kelly Dempsey is an acclaimed sustainable fashion designer who is recognized for her innovative approach to upcycling thrift store treasures. Her unique design philosophy and dedication to sustainability have earned her accolades, including landing runner-up on Season 14 of Project Runway and having her recycled designs featured in Marie Claire and on Good Morning America.
In the interview Kelly shares her inspirations and thoughts on sustainable materials, transparent supply chains and fashion challenges regarding sustainability.
OEKO-TEX®: What inspired you to focus on sustainable fashion, and how has it shaped your design philosophy?
Kelley Dempsey: My journey into sustainable fashion began in middle school when I started upcycling my second-hand clothes. Back then, thrifting wasn't viewed the same way it is today, and I faced bullying for wearing my classmates' hand-me-downs. In response, I sought a way to express my individuality and transform these pieces into something unique, which ignited my passion for upcycling. I wasn’t initially thinking about sustainability at such a young age, but as I grew older, I always tried to be eco-conscious in my choices. Naturally, my research into the fashion industry led me to learn about the damaging effects of fast fashion and the concerning statistic that over 86% of thrift store items end up in landfills. This awareness brought my journey full circle, and now I strive to create designs that reflect my commitment to showing people a new way to look at items often considered trash, giving them new life. Furthermore, I believe it’s important to be mindful of how I source any materials outside of thrifted items, ensuring that they are produced in a way that aligns with an eco-friendly lifestyle and supports sustainable practices.
How do you source sustainable materials, and why is OEKO-TEX® certification important to you?
When it comes to sourcing sustainable materials, I prioritize second-hand items, as they align with my commitment to reducing waste in the fashion industry. For the materials that are not thrifted, I believe it is crucial to contribute positively to the ongoing challenges within the industry rather than perpetuating them. My goal is to be part of the solution by selecting fabrics that are responsibly produced and environmentally friendly. OEKO-TEX® certification is particularly important to me because it provides assurance that the materials I use meet stringent safety and environmental standards. These certifications offer peace of mind, as they verify that the necessary checks have been conducted, ensuring transparency and accountability. In a landscape where greenwashing can be prevalent, OEKO-TEX® removes the guesswork, allowing me to focus on creating designs that are not only sustainable but also ethically produced.
Can you explain how sustainability influences your design process from concept to creation?
Sustainability profoundly influences my design process, as I recognize the significant damage the fashion industry has inflicted over the years. With fashion being the second largest polluter, right behind oil, and over half of clothing made from plastic, I see a focus on sustainability not as a trend but as a necessity. It's staggering to consider that a third of all microplastics in the ocean come from fast fashion, and projections indicate there could be more plastic than fish in our oceans by 2050. This reality is alarming and underscores the urgent need for change. As a designer, I feel compelled to advocate for sustainable practices and raise awareness about these issues. I believe it’s vital to adopt a slower fashion mindset, moving away from overconsumption and the constant cycle of fast fashion marketing. My goal is to create designs that promote longevity and mindfulness, encouraging consumers to make more thoughtful choices.
What challenges do you face in creating eco-friendly fashion, and how do you overcome them?
One of the significant challenges I face in creating eco-friendly fashion is resetting consumer perceptions around pricing. Many consumers are accustomed to purchasing items from brands like Shein and Temu for as little as $3, making it difficult for them to understand why a sustainably made shirt might cost $60. This disconnect often stems from a lack of information about the true costs associated with fast fashion, both for the planet and the garment workers who produce these items for mere pennies, often without a living wage. Additionally, the prevalence of micro-trends, which are designed primarily to profit the top of fast fashion organizations, contributes to this issue. Research shows that two out of three young women consider a garment worn only one or two times as "old" due to the constant barrage of new trends. This mindset not only fuels overconsumption but also detracts from the value of creativity and resourcefulness with the items we already own. To overcome these challenges, I believe that knowledge is power. It is essential to spread awareness about the environmental and social impacts of our purchasing decisions. By educating consumers on the realities behind fast fashion—such as the exploitation of workers and the detrimental effects on our planet—I aim to empower people to make informed choices. As more of us become aware of these issues, I believe they will be motivated to support sustainable practices, get creative with the items in their closets, and contribute to a solution for the pressing challenges we face today.
Why is transparency in the fashion supply chain crucial, and how do you ensure it in your work?
Transparency in the fashion supply chain is crucial because many large fast fashion brands have claimed to prioritize sustainability, only to later reveal instances of greenwashing and discrepancies between their promises and actual practices. This misalignment can lead to consumer distrust and perpetuates harmful practices within the industry. To ensure transparency in my work, I focus on sourcing items from second-hand stores and selecting textiles that come with trusted certifications, such as OEKO-TEX®. This approach not only supports sustainable practices but also provides assurance that the materials I use meet rigorous environmental and safety standards. By prioritizing transparency, I aim to build trust with consumers and demonstrate a genuine commitment to ethical fashion.
How do you balance style and sustainability to create designs that resonate with eco-conscious consumers?
Balancing style and sustainability are essential in my design process, especially in a world saturated with fleeting micro-trends. While I recognize that trends can be a fun way to refresh one’s style, I believe they don’t have to come at the expense of the planet.There are countless ways to alter existing clothing and get creative with what you already have in your closet to keep up with trends without constantly purchasing new items. I enjoy using second-hand pieces to create unique designs that showcase how fashion can be both stylish and sustainable. This approach demonstrates that you don’t need a significant budget or specific brand names to express yourself. By encouraging consumers to follow trends in their own way, rather than conforming to the crowd, we can cultivate a fashion culture that respects both personal style and the planet. In this way, my designs resonate with eco-conscious consumers who value creativity, individuality, and a commitment to sustainability.
What advice do you have for aspiring designers who want to create sustainable fashion collections?
For aspiring designers who want to create sustainable fashion collections, my biggest piece of advice is to focus on building a genuine connection with your audience. In a landscape where consumers are becoming increasingly aware of the issues surrounding fast fashion, it is vital to establish a core story that reflects your values and the purpose behind your work. Having clear brand values that differentiate you from others is essential. Instead of merely marketing a shirt made from the best materials, delve into the narrative behind those materials. Explain why you chose them, how they align with your sustainability goals, and the positive impact they have on the environment and the people involved in their production. This storytelling not only engages consumers but also fosters loyalty, as they resonate with your mission. As more individuals awaken to the challenges within the fashion industry, they seek brands that reflect their values and contribute to positive change. By being authentic and transparent about your journey and the choices you make, you can inspire others and create a meaningful connection that goes beyond just selling clothing. Remember, fashion is not just about the product; it’s about the story and the community you build around it.
What do you see as the future of sustainable fashion, and how are you preparing for it?
I see a promising future for sustainable fashion, characterized by a growing emphasis on upcycling and the use of textiles that are beneficial for both our planet and its workers. It’s heartening to witness the rise of upcycle videos and the creativity that individuals are bringing to the forefront. This shift reflects a collective consciousness where every action we take influences others, and I believe that more designers are beginning to consider the environmental and social impacts of their work. As this movement gains momentum, I anticipate that the influence of sustainable practices will only strengthen. I believe it’s only a matter of time before we see significant changes in the industry, potentially phasing out some of the larger fast fashion giants. However, we cannot solely rely on these brands to make the right decisions; consumers hold immense power. The more educated we become and the more we share that knowledge, the faster we can drive change. In preparation for this future, I am committed to continuously learning about sustainable practices and incorporating them into my designs. I enjoy actively engaging with the upcycling community and exploring innovative ways to repurpose materials. By fostering a dialogue around sustainability and encouraging others to think critically about their fashion choices, I aim to contribute to a more conscious and responsible fashion landscape.
